1 1/2 qts. peeled, 1 1/2-in. chunks kabocha* or other orange-fleshed winter squash (from a 3-lb. squash)
About 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 onion, halved and cut into half-moons
1 or 2 red or green serrano chiles, minced
1 cinnamon stick (2 1/2 in.)
20 fresh curry leaves* or 6 dried bay leaves
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 can (14.5 oz.) coconut milk
1 cup salted roasted cashews
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Steamed basmati rice