What Else?
• If you don't see ham bones in your butcher's case, just ask; they will most likely have them stashed in the back. Ask your butcher to cut the bone in half or into thirds for you so it will easily fit it into your pot. Plus cutting through the bone exposes all the good, rich marrow, allowing it to seep into the broth to give it a silky body and incomparable richness.

• Ham bone is my number one choice for this soup, but I've made it with ham hocks, smoked pork shanks, and other various smoked pork bits on offer at the farmer's market. You could probably make it with smoked turkey necks or wings too, though obviously the flavor will be different.

• If you want to make this soup without having to track down smoked pork parts, you can. Use the bacon as called for, then substitute chicken broth for the water. It will have great flavor if less body.

• If you want to substitute canned beans, give them a good rinse, then add them along with the cabbage. You will need about 2 cans (3 cups).

• Speaking of beans, I made this with all different kinds of beans before I decided that I loved the creaminess of pintos best against the brawny pork flavor. But it doesn't really matter what kind of beans you use so long as you like them.

• I can never get enough of kale, but collards, Swiss chard, or spinach (add it during the last five minutes of cooking) would be tasty in its place.