Serves 8 to 10 as an appetizer or 4 to 6 as a main dish

Negimaki pairs the flavors of grilled beef, grassy scallions, and a salty-sweet teriyaki glaze with the elegant presentation of sushi and rolls it into a summer dish that can be served as an appetizer or entrée. To make our version, we sliced flank steak (briefly frozen first to firm it up for easy slicing) on the bias, pounded the pieces until they were thin, and arranged the slices in a slightly overlapping pattern to form rectangular meat “wrappers.” Then we placed four scallion halves on each wrapper, tightly rolled the meat around the scallions, and pinned the roll shut with three toothpicks. To char the meat quickly, we grilled the rolls over a hot fire, turning them every 5 minutes so all sides browned evenly, and we glazed them partway through cooking with a salty-sweet teriyaki-like reduction of sake, mirin, soy sauce, and sugar. The meat slices were too thin to probe for doneness, so instead we took the temperature of the scallion core; when it registered between 150 and 155 degrees, the meat was properly cooked. Finally, we sliced the rolls into bite-size pieces, drizzled them with extra glaze, and sprinkled them with toasted sesame seeds.