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Marcella Hazan's Bolognese Sauce


2 tablespoons vegetable oil
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 cup chopped onion
1 1/3 cups chopped celery
1 1/3 cups chopped carrot
1/2 pound ground beef chuck
1/2 pound ground pork
1/2 pound ground veal
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups whole milk
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, or ground if your’re bereft of fresh
2 cups dry white wine
3 cups reduced homemade tomato purée or canned imported Italian San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand, with their juice
As much spaghetti as you wish, cooked and drained
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, at the table



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