1 cup warm water (100° to 110°F)
1 (1/4-ounce) envelope active dry yeast
3 cups bread flour or all-purpose flour plus more for work surface
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, well softened
Vegetable oil for bowl
8 cups water
1/2 cup baking soda
Pretzel salt (see Cooks' Notes) or coarse kosher salt
12 ounces good-quality Cheddar cheese, cut into 1-inch cubes
6 to 8 tablespoons dry white wine or water