3 to 4 lb. meaty bone-in beef short ribs, preferably English style
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
3 oz. thickly sliced pancetta (about 3 1/4-inch-thick slices) or 3 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch squares
1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1 heaping cup)
1 celery stalk, diced (about 1/2 cup)
1 carrot, diced (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 cup sliced white mushrooms
3 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 Tbs. tomato paste
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth
1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes