The earthy, lusty flavor of truffles is a welcome treat when cool weather approaches. For this recipe we’ve opted for fresh black winter truffles, which are both chopped and mixed into the Madeira butter as well as left in whole slices to dot the bird’s crisp skin. If you don’t want to splurge on fresh truffles, you can substitute frozen or jarred ones with good results, but if it’s available we urge you to seek out the good stuff.

What to buy: Look for truffles in gourmet grocery stores or online at D’Artagnan. If you can’t locate black winter truffles, you may substitute black summer ones, which have a lighter-colored interior.

Madeira is a slightly sweet, fortified wine from the Portuguese island of the same name. It complements truffles well, but tawny or reserve port is a suitable substitute.

Special equipment: The pros use a small slicer to thinly shave fresh truffles. You may also use a mandoline or a sharp knife.