Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Lay one chop on a cutting boarding and spread a third of the garlic on it. Season with a grind of black pepper and a pinch of salt. Lay another chop on top, so that the bones in the chops are aligned, and season with more garlic, pepper, and salt. Repeat with the last two chops, making sure that all the garlic is packed inside the roast. Securely tie the chops together in a bundle with kitchen twine.

Choose a casserole or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid that’s just large enough to hold all the ingredients and heat it over medium heat. Add the olive oil. When hot, add the bundle of chops, brown it on all sides, and transfer it to a plate. Add the pancetta to the pan and cook until the fat renders and the pancetta browns, about 4 minutes. Add the onions and carrots and cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

Return the lamb to the pot and add the rest of the ingredients, including the reserved porcini liquid. If needed, add enough water to bring the liquid about halfway to two0thirds up the sides of the lamb bundle; don’t let the liquid cover it. Bring to a simmer. Cover the pot, put it in the middle of the oven, and cook slowly for 2 hours. If the liquid becomes more active than a slow simmer, reduce the heat. The slow cooking of this dish makes the meat extremely tender and mellows the garlic.

When the lamb is finished (the chops should still be in a neat bundle, but the meat can be easily pulled apart with a fork), remove it from the liquid and set it aside, loosely covered, in a warm place. Remove the bay leaves, orange zest, and herb stems. If desired, bring the sauce to a simmer and reduce to thicken. Remove the twine from the chops and serve with some sauce ladled on top, along with pasta or mashed potatoes.

Fine cooking #20, pg 37