4 small sweet potatoes (2 1/4 pounds total)

5 tablespoons olive oil

Scant 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (you can use a commercial rather than a premium aged grade)

1 1/2 tablespoons superfine sugar

12 green onions, halved lengthwise and cut into 1 1/2-inch segments

1 red chili, thinly sliced

6 ripe figs (8 1/2 ounces total), quartered

5 ounces soft goat's milk cheese (optional)

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper