1.    Place the dried porcini in a medium, heatproof vessel (narrow and deep works better than wide and shallow). Heat about a quart of water to nearly boiling and pour over the dried porcini-you may have to weight them down with another bowl or large spoon, if they float. Let soak about 30 minutes. Lift the porcini out of the liquid, chop them finely, and add them to the other chopped, fresh mushrooms.  Set them aside.  Then strain the porcini liquid through a very fine strainer (there may be abundant grit) set over a large bowl or large measuring cup; set that aside as well.

    2.    In a heavy-bottomed stockpot, saute the onion in oil over very low heat, stirring occasionally so the pieces don't char.  They will soften and, after 15 minutes, develop some gilding on the edges.  When the edges are heavily gilded and turning brown but not black, add the mushrooms and increase the heat to high.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are reduced by half, and start to carmelize, adding more oil as needed. Add salt and pepper to taste.

    3.    Add the remaining porcini liquid to the pot.  Simmer gently for 25-30 minutes. Add the chicken stock or water, the celery, the potatoes, and the carrots.  Return to a gentle simmer and cook for 30-40 minutes, until the potatoes and carrots are tender.

    4.    Add dill, remove from heat, and serve hot.

Reprinted with permission of Lyons Press from A Spoonful of Promises by T. Susan Chang.