Wash the squid thoroughly. If using whole squid: To clean, hold the body of the squid in one hand and gently pull the head and tentacles off (taking care not to break the ink sac). The intestines will automatically come away with the head. Separate the tentacles from the rest, wash thoroughly, and set aside. Peel off the outer red-brown skin from the body. Turn the squid body inside out; remove the cartilage and wash again thoroughly until no longer gritty. Turn right side out.

Slice the squid bodies into 1/4-inch-wide rings or into 1 1/2 to 2 inch slices. Leave the tentacles whole or cut in half, as you like.

Fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil. Toss in the squid and cook until tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain well, place in a bowl, and pour over the lime juice. Toss to coat. Add the coriander leaves if you wish, and toss.

Transfer the squid to a shallow serving bowl or place on a bed of lettuce on a small platter. Serve with the salad and herb plate if you wish, and with condiment dishes of the ginger garlic sauce, wedges of lime, and salt and pepper. Use the lettuce or salad greens and herbs to pick up the squid, then drizzle on a little sauce or squeeze on lime juice and season to taste, mouthful by mouthful.

Hot Sour Salty Sweet p175

Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid