Begin the charcoal fire and allow the coals to turn to ash before cooking. You will need a supply of coals to keep a steady heat for about half an hour.

Wash and dry the eggplants and prick each one once with a toothpick. Place the eggplants far enough from the hot white coals so that they will cook slowly and evenly. Turn the eggplants only as each side becomes black and soft. They are done when they have turned completely black and soft on all sides. Transfer to a serving dish and peel off the skin on the top side. Let cool 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the oil, lemon juice, oregano, salt, sugar, and pepper in a small bowl.

Slip each eggplant onto an individual dish so that the peeled side is up. Use a small knife to make 3 or 4 crisscrossing slashes into the buttery pulp, whisk the olive oil dressing until well combined, and spoon a little over each serving. Gently press the dressing into the pulp with a fork. Top with the parsley and serve.

The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean p205

Paula Wolfert